12th of January 2020 we proceed last 300 meters towards the ceremonial South Pole. It is an aluminum sphere, in which are mirrored surrounding flags of countries, which has signed Antarctic treaty. In 2008 was this point exactly on the geographical Pole, but whole 2.5km thick glacier on which we were is moving about 10m a year. Now we had to go little bit further to see the true geographical pole. It is marked by metal staff stacked in the snow every year 1st of January at 90° south latitude. Head of this staff is designed and cut on the station and names of people who stood over the winter on the station are carved in. During the winter all the transports to Antarctica are cancelled and people who are maintaining the station in darkness and terrible colds will live through very special moments.
We were far from home. I was 9 flights and 8th days of walk away from the one I have in Philippines. We were remembering our homes and from geographical pole we made a call to mama. I have tried to call my wife Meiting, but she didn’t pick up. I didn’t know why, only after some time I find out that there was an eruption of Taal volcano at the very same day as we reached the pole and Meeting’s flight to Manila from China was delayed by one day.
Amundsen-Scott station is mainly place for science. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to look inside (part of the reason was, that they were operating on New Zealand time, but we on Chilean time zone), but we were able to read something about the research and climate problems. Antarctica is a continent, where they are trying to keep absolutely clean place and minimize human impacts. For example you can approach to South Pole only from one direction because on the other part, there begins a huge special zone, where no one can step in nor any airplane can cross it. It’s also mandatory to take everything with you. In practice it meant, that during the trip we were allowed to pee in the snow, but we had to pack our excrements and bring them to the South Pole, where they collect them and took them outside Antarctica.
Today it seems as given that science is dominating Antarctica, but it was definitely not the case in past. First statin (still operating till today) on Antarctica was built by scot W.S. Bruce on Laurie Island in 1902. He gave it to Great Britain, but they arrogantly turned his offer down. Bruce disappointed then offered it to Argentina, who accept this nice gift. In 1908 Britons started claiming Antarctica from the reason that it belongs to South Falklands, but it was disputed by Argentina. British claim from 1908 was embarrassing amateur work full of mistakes in which even as Antarctica was part of South African territory so they had to redo it. This dispute with Argentina was very long and even resulted in open conflict in 1982. During the first half of 20th century following countries made their claims over the land from various reasons: GB, Argentina, Australia, Chile, France, New Zealand, South Africa and Norway. Argentina for example picked up a decree from 1493 in which the pope says, that undiscovered land should be divided between Spain and Portugal. Hitler has his own ambitions, but instead of historical or geographical reasons, he said, that land belongs to the one who steps in first and ordered planes to fly over Antarctica and drop small flags. Japan, USA, Belgium and Russia had also prepared their claims, but didn’t push them through. Peru, Uruguay, Brazil and Poland also showed interest. After the WWII in both superpowers 1950 USA and Russia said, that they do not recognize any other’s country claim, which has buried all those political efforts.
In meanwhile the scientific community was preparing their own proposal, which ultimately resulted in one of the most effective and progressive peace agreements in the history of humankind – the Antarctic treaty. What about not to fight about whose is this continent? What about leave it completely for scientific purposes? In 1958 Eisenhower has publicly supported this idea politically and in 1959 the treaty was signed.
Next change came, when in 1975 New Zealand proposed, that Antarctica will receive status as World Park, but was refused. In 1989 then was a new proposal on the table about rules of mineral mining, it was agreed and ready to be signed. But Australia has surprisingly pulled off from this. Very quickly followed by France and then all others. So Antarctica got a status of World Park and can enjoy a state of pristine and maximally untouched nature.
This story lead me to think about, how the shift of power in the world influence the future of whole continent. If USA and USSR, two counties which did not have any clear historical reason to claim Antarctica, didn’t become those superpowers, which dictates rules around the world, then Antarctica would maybe become scrambled same as Africa. There would be oil drills, mineral mining, draining fresh water from glaciers, open conflicts about territory and we would likely know less in general about climate changes…
We went to our camp, where we start getting drunk with a special cocktail – champagne with vodka and snow. Then we congratulate each other and also to other expedition, who undergo the same as us or even much longer treks. But short after these happy moments has fade, then it comes again the stress from the airplane schedules. We got lucky for third time and second day we left the Antarctic plateau.
MCH off the road 